Endelig er jeg færdig med at omsy min vinterfrakke. Hold op det har taget lang tid. Så jeg skulle naturligvis have den på i dag, selvom det er alt for varmt til vinterfrakke.
Finally I finished the refashion of my winter coat. It has taken
absolutely forever, mostly due to lots of seamripping and handstitching

The zipper was broken. I started by spending an entire evening removing it.

Then
I stitched the new zipper in its place. First I stitched the zipper to
the lining fabric and then to the fashion fabric. It took almost as long
as removing the old zipper to insert the new one and required large
amounts of tea and chocolate.

The
new zipper was slightly longer than the original, so I adapted the coat
to that. I handstitched the lowermost part. I didn’t sew the top part
of the zipper just yet.

Frakken havde altid være lidt smal om hofterne til mig, og jeg ville desuden gerne bedre kunne bruge den til at cykle i om vinteren.
Jeg sprættede sidesømmene op. Igen et kæmpe arbejde, da de var syet virkelig grundigt.
The coat has always been
slightly tight around my hips. I wanted to more comfortably be able to
use the coat when cycling in winter, so I decided to make side gussets
(or would it be more correct to call them godets?).
I opened the sideseams – again, took forever.

Jeg lavede foer-kiler med volumenvlies strøget på. Jeg ville egentlig have brugt thinsulate, men kunne ikke finde det i mine lokale stofbutikker, der ellers har ført det. Og syede dem på (med jakken på vrangen så godt som det nu lod sig gøre).
I made gussets  for the lining. I ironed on thin volume vlies on them.
I stitched them to he lining of the coat (part of the coat on the wrong side).

Så gjorde jeg det samme med de ydre kiler. De er lavet af uldrib fra Skipper Stoffer. De ydre kiler er lavet med læg for den bedst mulige pasform. Øverst ved ærmerne er de håndsyet på.
Jeg sømmede foer-kilerne og yderkilerne hver for sig, så de kan bevæge sig individuelt og den ene ikke buler op.
I did the same with the outer gussets. They are made from wool rib. They have a pleat to fit me best.
I hemmed the lining gussets and the fashion fabric gusset individually, so they wouldn’t pull at eash other.

Jeg fjernede de gamle ribmanchetter og erstattede dem med nye i den røde uldrib. De er 8 cm lange.
Jeg erindrer ikke helt hvordan jeg fik sandwichet alle lagene på en måde så jeg kunne sy det sammen – eller også har jeg fortrængt det.
I removed the old ribbed edges of the sleeves, and replaced them with red wool ribbing. They are 8 cm (3 1/8″).
I
don’t quite remember how I sandwiched the fabric in order to be able to
sew everything together – or maybe I have repressed it…

Jeg fjernede ribkanten ved halsen. Den havde altid være meget stram og stiv (har ikke noget billede af den). Jeg havde egentlig planlagt at erstatte den med den røde uldrib, men fandt ud af, at jeg foretrak frakken helt uden ribkanten.

Da jeg fjernede ribkanten, blev frakkens hætte samtidig delt fra frakken. Jeg syede ydersiden af hætten på frakken igen på symaskine og derefter syede jeg indersiden af hætten på frakken fra retsiden med små stige-sting i hånden.

Til sidst syede jeg toppen af lynlåsen, kanten af hætten og frakkens overkant med små stige-sting også. Da ribkanten var fjernet, var der en rå kant af lynlåsen i begge sider. Jeg syede et smalt lyseblåt bånd (der havde siddet mellem hætte og ribkant) på i begge sider i hånden for at dække det.

I
removed the ribbed edge by the neck. It had always been tight and
stiff. I planned to replace it with the red wool rib, but realised that I
liked the coat better without a ribbed neck edge altogether (I maight
make a dickey out of the remaining wool rib though).


When
I removed the ribbed neck edge, the hood was split from the coat as
well. I stiched the fashion fabric of the coat and the hood on the
sewing machine and then the linings by hand.


Lastly I handstiched the upper zipper, the vertical edges of the hood and the upper edge of the coat in tiny stiches.
To
hide the edge of the top of the zipper (previously it would have been
covered by the neck ribbing) i handstitched a narrow light blue ribbon
on top of it (the ribbon had been at the hood edge before).

Den færdige frakke:
Finished: